Thursday, July 17

I got up before the others and did two hours of reading and writing. At 10:30 we walked down to the jetty with our packed lunches, blankets, life jackets, and other bits and pieces. Shortly afterwards Mika, Camilla, Ann-Sofie and us set off in one of the bigger boats, towing a small motor boat in case we needed it later. We stopped to collect Marina, Lisa and Morris, with their wonder-dog Chilli.

We sailed to Klovharun, the island where Tove Janssen lived and worked. We came here once before two years ago. Then it was very stormy and approaching the island was extremely difficult, which is why we have the small boat with us. Today it is very sunny and the island seems smaller and the approach much easier. Last time we were the only people on the island. Today there are merry gangs of tourists coming and going.

We wandered round for an hour, before heading back to the boat to eat lunch.

Then we set off for Glosholm, an island far away that is made only of stones, and changes shape every year, as the winds, the waves and the winter ice move it around. It takes almost an hour to reach it and on the way we stop at another cluster of small islands where we can see a seal playing in the water. It plays about twenty metres from the boat, sticking its head out of the water and watching us while it does.

For some time we can see nothing on three sides except the sea, the horizon and the almost cloudless sky. It is an interesting effect, seeing only the horizon from a small boat. After a time the horizon starts to look made-up, as though it is a not-very-realistic effect on a low-budget film. The edge between the sea and sky seems almost too much like a drawn edge.

When we arrive Camilla says in surprise that it is so high this year, and indeed the way onto the island is up a steep hill of rolling stones. Somebody has made a large mound of stones, and I photograph Naa walking to look at it.

We will spend several hours here. The island has two thin spurs at either end, one of which has been colonised by swans who are keen to keep it to themselves. We will build a barbecue from driftwood that we collect and cook sausages and toast.

We will return to Sundö almost twelve hours after we left. We will realise that we are all bright red from the sun, and that most of us have adopted a reverse panda look, with white rings round our eyes where sunglasses prevented us getting red.

I will be asleep within seconds of getting into bed.