Sunday, December 6

December 6th means Independence Day. Some years ago everything in Finland closed for this. Nowadays the shops that open everyday continue to do business.

We set out on a quick shopping expedition that rapidly developed a set of side quests. On one of these we find ourselves driving past Rautatientori, where the four stone giants all wear masks.

Christmas lights have gone up all over the centre of Helsinki. I take some pictures when we slow down outside Citycenter. Later we will go to a series of Indian shops in Hakaniemi and, to my delight, we will find frozen samosas that, heated, will prove completely authentic.

In the evening we will watch the YLE programme for the President’s non-existent ball. Due to the pandemic, the empty palace will host a variety of carefully choreographed singing and dancing while Sauli Niinistö and Jenni Haukio grin or grit their teeth through overlong conversations with over-enthusiastic interviewers.

For a few minutes the monotony will break as a Thunderbird puppet discusses fashion moments from previous years.